The Story of Birkenstock's Growth

Birkenstock grew from a family of German cobblers into a global fashion brand by staying true to one product idea for more than a century, the contoured cork footbed, while letting culture and fashion reinterpret it. Its roots go back to 1774, the footbed was developed by Konrad Birkenstock from 1896, and the first sandal followed in 1963. Designer collaborations, a starring role in the 2023 Barbie film and backing from L Catterton helped take it to a New York Stock Exchange listing in October 2023 that valued the company at around $8.6 billion.

Origins: from cobbler to footbed

Birkenstock traces its history to 1774, when Johann Adam Birkenstock was recorded as a "subject and cobbler" in the church archives of Langen-Bergheim, Germany.

The innovation that defines the brand came more than a century later. In 1896, Konrad Birkenstock began making and selling flexible footbed insoles, and in 1902 he developed the contoured arch support Birkenstock is known for. The idea was simple and lasting: shape the footbed to the natural form of the foot.

Key milestones in Birkenstock's growth

• 1774: Johann Adam Birkenstock is recorded as a cobbler in Langen-Bergheim.
• 1896: Konrad Birkenstock begins making flexible footbed insoles.
• 1902: Konrad develops the contoured arch support.
• 1963: Karl Birkenstock introduces the Madrid, the first Birkenstock sandal, originally sold as a "gymnastic sandal".
• 1970s: the two-strap Arizona follows, and Margot Fraser begins importing Birkenstocks to the US.
• 1990s: the sandals move into fashion, helped by Kate Moss wearing them in a fashion shoot.
• 2021: L Catterton, backed by LVMH, and Bernard Arnault's family holding company Financière Agache take a majority stake, valuing Birkenstock at around €4 billion.
• 2023: the Arizona features in the Barbie film, and Birkenstock lists on the New York Stock Exchange.

What makes Birkenstock different

Birkenstock's footbed is made from cork and latex and is designed to mirror the shape of the foot, with a deep heel cup and support under the arch and toes. Over time it moulds to the wearer. Few brands are so closely tied to a single, recognisable functional innovation, and that consistency is the foundation of the brand.

How Birkenstock became a fashion brand

Designer collaborations

Birkenstock has kept its classic shapes while letting designers reinterpret them. Collaborations with Dior, Manolo Blahnik, Stüssy and Valentino, among others, have moved it from functional footwear to fashion statement, without changing what makes it Birkenstock.

A cultural moment: Barbie

In the 2023 film Barbie, the Arizona sandal plays a pivotal role: Barbie is offered a choice between a stiletto and a Birkenstock, representing the real world. It put the brand in front of a vast global audience just months before its stock market debut.

Growth in the US

The US has become Birkenstock's biggest market, accounting for more than half of sales, and sales more than quadrupled between 2014 and the 2023 IPO.

The 2023 IPO

Birkenstock listed on the New York Stock Exchange on 11 October 2023, valuing the company at around $8.6 billion. The shares fell on their first day of trading, a reminder that even a much-loved brand faces investor scrutiny.

What other brands can learn from Birkenstock

• Own one idea. Birkenstock's footbed has defined the brand for more than a century.
• Let culture reinterpret you. Designer collaborations and cultural moments refreshed the brand without changing the product.
• Protect your silhouettes. Recognisable designs such as the Arizona and Madrid are assets in their own right.
• Turn function into identity. A practical innovation can become a fashion signal when the brand is consistent.

Frequently asked questions

When was Birkenstock founded?

Birkenstock traces its roots to 1774, when Johann Adam Birkenstock was recorded as a cobbler in Germany. The footbed was developed from 1896 and the first sandal launched in 1963.

Who invented the Birkenstock footbed?

Konrad Birkenstock began making footbed insoles in 1896 and developed the contoured arch support in 1902.

Who owns Birkenstock?

LVMH-backed L Catterton and Financière Agache took a majority stake in 2021, and Birkenstock has been listed on the New York Stock Exchange since October 2023.

Why is Birkenstock so popular?

A distinctive, comfortable footbed, iconic designs like the Arizona, designer collaborations and cultural moments such as the Barbie film.

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